Wired at Yohji Yamamoto

A physical runway show, in an indoor environment, is a rare thing these days, especially from a non-native designer. Yohji Yamamoto has been a fixture in Paris Fashion Week since the late seventies; his love for Paris and showing his collections here was immortalized by Wim Wenders in his 1989 documentary Notebook on Cities and Clothes.…

Finally, Pierre Cardin Has a Fashion Documentary

At 98 years old, Pierre Cardin is still leading from the gut. Decades ago he was booted from France’s Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture for selling ready-to-wear (which he pioneered); had an affair with actress Jeanne Moreau (without breaking up with his longtime live-in male partner); and held Cold War-era fashion-show extravaganzas in Communist…

Self-Creation at Comme des Gar?ons

A Comme des Gar?ons show is always unexpected, but this time it was more unexpected than expected. Rei Kawakubo has just finished her exploration of the world of Orlando for the Vienna Opera, thus completing several seasons devoted to costume on the runway. This conclusion was echoed with the first exit walking to the sounds…

Artist is Present at Yohji Yamamoto

A tower of neon strip lights was erected at the models’ exit, giving the runway an almost gallery-like glow, which was fitting as it seemed like Yohji Yamamoto had been feeling crafty. The invitation was wrapped in black hand-felted wool, and came in a crisp cotton envelope, more than a hint of what to expect.…

70s Sublime at Celine

“Last night I had another dream about you / How many fucking dreams must I have about you?” a breathy Sofia Bolt (aka Amelie Rousseaux) demanded defiantly over and over on the soundtrack. A Paris-born, L.A.-based musician who merges classic French pop with West Coast psych, she couldn’t have been a more fitting persona for…

Petals Aplenty at Dries Van Noten

“It doesn’t matter?/?What you create?/?If you have no fun.” The opening lines of the soundtrack ‘Party?Girl’ by Michelle Guverich couldn’t have better described the girl on the runway tonight. And, perhaps, Dries Van Noten himself, who seems to be in particularly high spirits these days. Who could blame him, with the remarkable collections he keeps…

Comme des Garcons Men Fall 2020

All the Colors at Comme des Gar?ons

To the sounds of techno god Jeff Mills’ recent release Aquarius, Comme des Gar?ons opened abruptly as several boys hit the runway at the same time, meandering into the space continuously in movement…

Dries Van Noten Men Fall 2020

Art & Artifice at Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten held his men’s show in the same brutalist space that hosted his stellar collaborative collection with Christian Lacroix last season, behind the Opera Bastille…

Yohji Yamamoto Men Fall 2020

Getting Graphic at Yohji Yamamoto

The first look tonight at Yohji Yamamoto reminded us of the iconic photos of Jamie Morgan, styled by Ray Petri, that defined the UK in the 80s and became known as the Buffalo style…